Karl Burgel is a sculptor, painter, installation artist, and jeweler. Obviously, given my weird obsession with all things jewelry these days, I’m most drawn to his adornments. Brugel’s overarching philosophy when it comes to metalwork is summed up in an interview posted on the site: “I am primarily concerned with the sensual and the physical aspects of jewelry and ornament. I have tried to cast as wide a net as possible, not limiting myself to the execution of the object nor the function of a single object. I’m interested in touch of material, intimate surface, weight, light, structure and ideas of concealment but the method of production is secondary. I like to think of my jewelry as a secretion. Like a bee produces honey, the jewelry is what comes out of me.” And on the future direction of metalsmithing and jewelry design, “I would love to see more obsessive craftsmanship, abstract constructions, deconstructivist ornaments, anti-dogmatic and unpredictably honest. Work of divine madness, visually complex and free of seductive packaging. Work that is bold, confident and discrete. Work that makes use of the advantages of the small intimate format to connect with the human psyche.” All of Brugel’s work utilizes geometric shapes and fascinating textural juxtapositions. Be sure to check out his full gallery of work on his website

I’ve featured Vladimir Karaleev previously, but since then he’s designed two more collections and there are interviews and video of his shows now available. Courtesy of all of this new information on the designer, I’ve learned that he’s colourblind! Of course, when your concentration is mostly focused on draping and layering, colour tends to play second chair as is. He can see the colour blue, which is what initially attracted me to his clothing, and can be seen making another appearance in his Fall 10/11 collection. Anyway, each collection brings a refinement of his basic aesthetic principles and I’m looking forward to seeing more of it in the future.
I’ve posted pictures from the Fall 10/11 collection, but check out the video below to see a preview of Spring 2011

There is an opulent softness to Mandy Coon’s clothing that keeps me from dismissing it as more of the same gothic frippery that’s been dominating fashion circles for the past few years. Yeah, there’s lots of black and black leather, and chains but it’s nicely tempered with a milky peach toned silk, chunky knits, and humour in the shape of a crushed velvet bunny bag. Her silhouettes aren’t aggressively hard-edged and I think that’s what makes the difference